Chetganj ki Nakkataiya

Chetganj ki Nakkataiya is one of Varanasi's most extraordinary living traditions — a night when a single episode from the Ramayana blooms into a city-wide carnival of theatre, satire and moving tableaux.

• The name comes from the Sanskrit-derived Hindi word for "nose-cutting": the fair marks the dramatic Ramlila scene in the forest of Panchavati where the demoness Surpanakha, sister of Ravana, is spurned by Rama and Lakshmana, and the enraged Lakshmana severs her nose with his sword.
• The Ramlila enactment climaxes near midnight, and only then does the true spectacle begin — a slow-moving procession of illuminated floats (jhankis) that winds through the lanes of Chetganj, Pishach Mochan, Lahurabir, Chaurchhatwa and Ben Bagh, watched by lakhs of people who line rooftops, balconies and pavements until three or four in the morning.
• The fair was founded in 1887 by Baba Fatehram, a local ascetic who organised the Chaitganj Ramlila Committee and funded the event through tiny daily contributions from neighbourhood shopkeepers.
• Its genius lay in disguise: under British rule, when open protest was banned, Baba Fatehram won permission for a "religious procession" and then filled it with tableaux loaded with metaphor and biting satire aimed at colonial injustice — a coded call to awaken the public.
• Revolutionaries, reportedly including Chandrashekhar Azad, are said to have gathered around the nearby Saraswati Reading Room during these gatherings.
• That subversive DNA survives today: alongside floats depicting Ramayana scenes, marching elephants, camels and horses, you will see sharp, funny, current-affairs tableaux commenting on social reform and the news of the day.
• In 2024 the fair completed its 138th year and drew national attention with a visit from the Prime Minister.
• For vegetarian travellers, Nakkataiya night is pure joy and completely worry-free.
• It unfolds in the heart of the old city's famously vegetarian food belt, and temporary stalls sell chaat, jalebi, imarti, gulab jamun, kachori-sabzi, roasted chana and hot milk.
• Do note one Banarasi caution: some roadside "thandai" and lassi vendors in Varanasi add bhang (cannabis) — always ask specifically for plain (sada) lassi or plain thandai, or simply carry your treats from a trusted pure-veg sweet house.
• For a reliable sit-down meal before the late-night crowds build, the pure-vegetarian institutions of Godowlia and Thatheri Bazar — a short walk or auto ride away — are your safest and most delicious bet.
• Practically, Nakkataiya is a free, open-street event, so treat it as a night of walking, standing and crowd-navigating rather than a ticketed venue.
• Arrive by early evening to find a good vantage point along the route, keep valuables secure in the dense crowds, travel light, and be prepared for the procession to run well past midnight.
• It is loud, joyous, deeply local and unlike any other fair in India — a rare chance to see how Kashi turns devotion, theatre and quiet defiance into one unforgettable night.