Madurai

Madurai, 460 km south-west of Chennai on the Vaigai river, is one of India's oldest continuously inhabited cities — Tamil sangam-era literature places it as a thriving cultural capital over 2,500 years ago, and the city has been a centre of Tamil literature, temple architecture, and Dravidian devotion ever since.

• The defining sight is the Meenakshi Amman Temple, the magnificent 17th-century Dravidian-architecture complex dedicated to goddess Meenakshi (an avatar of Parvati) and her consort Sundareswarar (Shiva).
• The temple's 14 gopuram towers — the tallest is 52 m — are densely carved with thousands of brightly painted figures from Hindu mythology and remain the city's skyline.
• The Thousand Pillar Hall, the golden lotus tank, and the daily night ceremony where Sundareswarar's palanquin is carried to Meenakshi's sanctum are essential.
• Beyond the temple, the Thirumalai Nayakkar Mahal (17th-century palace courtyard) and Gandhi Memorial Museum (in the historic Tamukkam Palace) round out a full day.
• For vegetarian travellers, Madurai is one of South India's great food cities: the post-9 PM nocturnal street-food scene around the temple is legendary — Jigarthanda (a chilled drink of almond gum, sarsaparilla root syrup, milk, and ice cream, unique to Madurai), Madurai-style mini idli soaked in sambar at Murugan Idli Shop, kothu parotta in a vegetarian version, mutta-less omelette-style podi dosa at Konar Kadai, and the local sweet of paruthi paal (cotton-seed milk).
• October to February is the comfortable window; avoid April-June humidity.
• Easily combined with Rameshwaram (170 km east) or Kanyakumari (240 km south).