Bade Ganeshji ka Mandir

Set on a raised terrace just above the sacred tank beside the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, Bade Ganeshji ka Mandir is one of Ujjain's most-loved neighbourhood shrines and an almost mandatory pause for pilgrims flowing to and from Mahakal.

• Its name literally means "the temple of the big Ganesha," and the reason is immediately obvious: enshrined here is a strikingly large, artistically modelled idol of Lord Ganesha, painted and adorned so that it dominates the intimate sanctum.
• By local tradition the temple is associated with Pandit Narayanji Vyas, and it has long been a working religious institution rather than merely a monument, its walls worn smooth by generations of devotees who touch the threshold before continuing on to the Jyotirlinga.
• Beyond the presiding Ganesha, the temple is known for a remarkable Panchmukhi (five-faced) Hanuman idol, reported to be fashioned from a mixture of materials including lime and other traditional compounds, an unusual sight that draws visitors curious about temple craft.
• The shrine is closely linked with learning: for many years a Sanskrit pathshala and a centre for the study of astrology (jyotish) have operated in and around its precincts, and it is common to see students of the shastras and priests versed in the panchang connected to the place.
• This blend of devotion and scholarship gives Bade Ganesh a quieter, studious character than the thronged Mahakal complex a few steps away.
• Practically, the temple is compact and welcoming.
• Mornings and evenings bring aarti, bells and the scent of incense; Wednesdays and the festival of Ganesh Chaturthi see the heaviest footfall, when the idol is dressed in fresh finery.
• Entry is free, photography is usually permitted in the outer areas, and a visit pairs naturally with darshan at Mahakaleshwar, the Shipra ghats and the nearby Harsiddhi and Kal Bhairav shrines.
• Dress modestly and remove footwear before entering.
• For food, the Mahakal precinct all around the temple is thick with pure-vegetarian options.
• Ujjain's signature breakfast of poha with crisp jalebi is sold from lane-side stalls near the Mahakal gates, and simple pure-veg thali and namkeen shops cluster along the approach roads.
• Ask for a pure-vegetarian kitchen serving the local dal-bafla, kachori and sabudana, and choose plain, bhang-free thandai or fresh lassi and buttermilk to cool off after darshan.